Yet the demands and sophistication on our braking systems has certainly increased from the time of simple short driving in the `950. Consider that auto dealerships used to make their money and profits on car sales. Along came the interstate highway system and long haul trips. Lots more miles on cars and family trips and vacations. Add to the mix suburbanization and commutes to add up those miles. Sure these are highway trips with little brake use and braking over the miles and kilometers. Yet speeds on our highways and demands on car brakes and brake linings have greatly increased. Thus highway trips or commutes may mean fewer stops and brake use. Yet when vehicles do stop – to pull off the highway, to slow down for toll booths and bridges , or just a plain wholesale stop in the road, it’s a situation of great stress on brakes on brake linings to take this punishment. As a result of all the miles put on by most drivers, dealerships make a fair amount of their profit on auto service and not so much today on the initial purchase of the new or used vehicles.

In the past the four wheel drum brake shoe was more than adequate for road comfort and safety. However the drum brake system has one major drawback. Because Of the excessive heat buildup, the brakes fade, or lose their power to slow down or stop the car, truck or S.U.V. vehicle. To overcome this problem, a new type braking method and system was introduced and is now the standard. The newer type of brake system that replaced the standard drum brakes was introduced. These disc brakes are superior as they deal with friction generated heat a lot more effectively.

Routine maintenance of your car should include brake line and host inspection and inspections. Check for leaks, kinks and rust on the lines and leaks or other deterioration at the flexible hoses

Motorists often take their brake systems for more than granted and as a result these systems suffer little maintenance, attention and care. Yet in an emergency handling system a brake system that is in good stead may make the difference between a safe short stop and a messy and needless collision,. Consider that in your vehicle maintenance and inspection schedule and schedules.

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You would be amazed. More than one amateur mechanic has produced sparks or even open flames near leaky gas tanks or wet fuel lines. How downright dangerous a practice indeed. Included in such events are the use of electric power tools, grinding, welding as well as using propane torches to loosen rusted fasteners around these leaky or leaking fuel tanks and gas lines. Experienced and well trained mechanical and auto service department experts such as Shinderpal Jandu state to always fix the leak first and foremost. Then do the other repairs work or sets of task to complete the repair and fixing process fully.

Next never crawl under a car or vehicle that is not adequately supported. Next in line never ever rely on the auto jack alone to hold up the car, truck, van or bus that you or your team are working on. No excuses will ever do for this cardinal and very deadly sin of omission and laziness. The vehicle should be on level ground with the transmission in gear (manual transmission) or park (automatic tranny). Next the emergency brake should also be fully engaged. One or preferably more wheels should be solidly and firmly blocked. To block a car from rolling a brick or a piece of wood can be utilized to prevent the car from rolling.

It is a simple rule and basic safety prevention rule and standard never to smoke cigarettes or tobacco products when working on the fuel system or battery charging system. Gasoline vapors from the fuel tank, fuel lines, carburetor or fuel injections are more than extremely flammable. Hydrogen gas inside the battery, as well as lingering about the battery case, is dangerously explosive. The hydrogen sulfide gas emitted by charging (as opposed to dead) auto batteries can be set off by any or even the smallest spark. Once set ablaze the hydrogen sulfide gas can serve to explode the battery with its dangerous caustic battery acid- which can splash not only on your mechanics set of clothes but also onto their face, eyes or skin. Thus make it a solid rule to refrain from smoking any time that you are working on a car or under the hood.

Lastly when doing any kind of electrical work such as replacing a starter, ignition switch, alternator, voltage regulator, radio etc, it is always a wise and safe idea and practice to disconnect the battery ground cable entirely. This will eliminate the possibility and possibilities of accidentally grounding the electrical circuit which could well start a fire or alternatively damaging some component in the now very delicate electrical and electronic systems of modern cars. The component of modern hybrid vehicles even come now in shielding electrostatic bags alone just to shield the sensitive electronic components of these hybrid gas / electric vehicles from the ravages of simple static electricity

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For example when it comes to winter driving as you might find in the colder northern climes of Northern Minnesota, and the colder more frigid regions of Alberta & Manitoba Canada that those who own tire chains often even neglect the care and attention of these road safety and handling devices. Often the “chains” are put away in the back and recesses of the garage – so that when their appropriate and necessary time comes that they are nowhere to be found or located.

If you do own winter tire chains, it is best to keep them in your car’s trunk , or in the case of a pick up truck “toolbox” or in your truck’s or SUV’s passenger or storage compartment areas, throughout the entire winter time period. Stow a four by four plastic tarp near the chains, and perhaps an old blanket as well to kneel on, in case you are forced to install or remove your own.

Since the do-it-yourselfer mechanic will undoubtedly be confronted with metric nuts, bolts and fluid capacities metric tools are now essential to any competent home and auto repair tinkerer. Although many metric nuts and bolts seem to be about the same size as standard (now sometime referred to as “non-metric), these are not interchangeable. Do not use metric wrenches on imperial nuts and bolts or “imperial “wrenches on metric nuts – except in real and absolute emergencies. It can be said and noted that a wrench that is only slightly too large is likely to round off the corners of the fastener and make it difficult to remove. Other tools such as ratchet extensions, punches and chisels whose exact sizes are not crucial to their function are often sold in the US in non-metric forms only.

Lastly and interestingly one of the most versatile and important items in the bottom of your auto and household tool kit can be duct tape – the grey fabric with the stick-to-anything adhesive. In an emergency duct-tape can patch or hold up any of a variety of things. More than one car, truck or SUV has limped many many miles or kilometers into a service station, garage or auto dealership with a ruptured water hose held temporarily together with simple Canadian tire duct tape. A few strips can hold your trunk lid closed, if it is over loaded or even if the trunk latch itself is broken. You can even make the letters for a simple yet effective “Help ” sign that is readily visible at night – safety and emergency means – with this solid performer due to duct tapes highly visible light reflecting qualities.

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Studebaker released a leaner and lighter version of full-sized car in 1939, called “Champion.” However, the company contributed to the Second World War. The war did not affect their automobile production but they were able to manufactured prewar models then developing their new postwar designs. Studebaker employed Raymond Loewy, in which he was supported by Virgil Exner to conceptualize the new postwar car design. In 1947, Studebaker released the Loewy-Exner model. It was noticeable for its flat flanks, enclosed body, built-in fenders, and extraordinary trunk outline combined to form “three-box design.” The company also released Starlight, an innovative model that has a rear window enclosed from door to door.

The company produced quality cars, better known to be “coming or going cars.” Humorist couldn’t differentiate the front from the back because the front and rear side of the car were alike. Studebaker released their three-box designs in 1949. It includes Land Cruiser, Commander and Studebaker Champion. Meanwhile, Commander and Land Cruiser had the same technology of the Champion models such as extended rear door, front fenders, longer wheelbase and hood.

They produced new automobile designs with the same technology used on the prewar designs. They used an 80 horse-power six-cylinder engine for the 2.8 model which was the same engine on Champion model. In addition, the 3.7 Commander/Land Cruiser was released to the market in the early 1930s. The automobile designs of Studebaker had not changed until the release of “bullet nose” models in 1950. They produced the primary models like Hawk series and Avanti. But other automobile producers had overtaken the company’s unique design on the same year but the company was forced to leave the industry in 1966. Though they experienced hardship, Studebaker persistently produce automobile in their small plant at Hamilton, Ontario.

Studebaker will always remain in the history of automobiles. They proved their fame with the aid of their several designs in the past which was magnificent in quality and reliability.

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What is seldom appreciated is that the mighty Duesenberg motor car clan was derived from rather more humble beginnings – an earlier more mundane production model – the much less glamorous Model “A” Duesenberg. Even though not considered such a classic of note as later Model J and the supercharged Model SJ 1932 Duesenbegs , was basically a very good car that introduced a later standard in the auto market – hydraulic brakes.

The Duesenberg J was the creation of Mr. Errett Lobban Cord , who gained management and ownership control of the Duesenberg Motor Company of Indianapolis in 1926 and made it an integral component of its his Auburn-Cord-Duesenberg empire. This great automotive industry pioneer said himself many times that his vision was to father a home gown domestic American car that was as best as the world could produce. To this day many would still believe that the Duesenberg was of course of European – German, American or perhaps Italian vintage and origins. Even the name of the automotive creation Duesenberg belies this point and viewpoint.

Why was it that it took a luxury high end automotive series of products to bring the Duesenberg line of motor vehicles to the automotive historical forefront and not the innovations of the racing car brothers ? First as always is cost – that is in relation to its marketplace. Always consumers and car buyers look and compare a vehicle for purchase to other products in its market segment and niche. Its a price comparison process to the “competition” and competitive vehicles in the auto transportation marketplace. The Model A was priced over the budget of most car buyers – a hefty seven to 8 thousand dollars – which was a very large sum in the eras of the roaring 1920’s. Also add historical happen-chance to the mix. After all this was the era post World War 1. It was not only Duesenberg which suffered from the associated stigma of a Teutonic Germanic nameplate. The Chrysler Corporation as well suffered from the same automotive marketing issues to the American motoring public and communities.

While it can be considered that the legacy of the Doozies were the wonderful “boats” , extreme luxury vehicles popularized by the likes of European Royalty as well as American “Royalty” in the form of Hollywood movie stars it was after all the more simple and basic initial products of the Duesenberg Motor Company that overall had the greatest and lasting effects on the American and indeed worldwide European and Japanese Asian automotive industry and products. The straight eight motor power plant went on to become the auto industry base standard against which all other motors were compared and related to . It was first Packard and Buick that followed this trend , and then later with the introduction of the short stroke overhead valve V-8 engine by the General Motors G.M. divisions of Oldsmobile and the luxury vehicle of its time – the namesake Cadillac.

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Wintertime driving conditions in many parts of the country call for special tires , sometimes chains to pull in snow and ice – as well as to stop in both a short distance safely. Without question, snow tires increase traction for both pulling and stopping on both ice and snow. There are two reasons at least for this – the deep groves and the much larger tyre footprint areas. On ice and packed snow this larger “footprint” often means much more than any differences in tread design and designs. That being said winter-time tire studs, although once very popular, are now relatively uncommon among seasonal drivers, due to their destructive effects on roads and highways and are not legal in many precincts. Check with your local highway department.

One point to note and remember – winter tires , can be noisy on dry pavement – never mind the clicking sound emanating from studded tires at high traffic speeds. On the other side of the road so to speak – the nosier the tread design or designs the overall better performance on the roadway by your wintertime tires in the snow. Compromise to reduce noise also reduces tire and vehicle pulling power in loose snow and mud driving conditions. All in all it can be said by auto service and vehicle safety experts , that full-circle , welded-lug chains provide several times more pulling power than even the most highly rated , and expensive snow tires , but are of course a lot less convenient and even unsightly for automobile owners and motorists.

If you decide that you need the all out gripping and hence stopping powers of cold weather seasonal tire chains first all take the time to either order your tires early from your big box automotive store or auto factory local dealer. Shop early – way ahead of the winter season. Why – first availability . Its a case of the early bird gets the worm – or in this the reduced price and availability of winter time snow chains. When the blizzards hit you can bet that your local suppliers will be plum out of wintertide automotive products. Never mind the long waits in line or the holdups in installation on your vehicle or fleet of vehicles.

If its a simple matter of occasional tire chains for a one time trip for a skiing vacation to Calgary or for relatively light non demanding snow and icy road conditions then you might well consider the easier to set up , though offering less traction and gripping power , easier to set up and install tire chain varieties. For occasional use around the city, or one time use per through the Christmas and ice rut seasons of dead cold January , motorists and vehicle owners might well consider the advice of their trusted local garage mechanic and consider the early and prudent purchase of two or three strap-or-buckle on chains rather than full-circle type of tyre chains. Be prepared – do not wait to look around in the deep recesses of the trunk of your car – for chains when you are stuck in the snow.

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Its like brake or transmission in a vehicle – be it car , truck or SUV. Few think about their fluid levels or the last time maintenance was done on the vehicle. Add in the fact that the car or truck is second hand or used and its anyone’s guess. Yet it is a simple and easy matter to check fluid levels and the protection afforded to cold weather freeze-up of the coolant fluids.

How can anyone be taught how to check the coolant level. Simply open up the engine hood when your car has been sitting for a couple of hours. Look for a coolant canister . Its the overflow bottle container and looks simply like a plastic jug. If you do not know how to open your hood – often bonnets today can be a puzzle to open – then consult the auto manual that came with the car , online , or at the worst call your factory dealer or local garage. Just have your auto make , model and year available handy. To judge fluid levels simply look on the side of the coolant overflow container. There will be a marking “cold” or “cold fluid level”. Simply compare the two marks – that of the level of the fluid in the coolant container and the mark on the side of the bottle. Do you have an adequate amount ?

Taking good care of fluid levels under the hood can spare you auto repair bills at your local garage and may well keep you away from car and truck dealers for extra years to come. Its well worth the effort all in all and only requires simple and ongoing attention to detail. After all its your car or truck and your vehicle repair or new car replacement costs out of your own pocketbook.

Its not only a matter of long term truck or car car and long life. Its not only about keeping your vehicle in good running order and a proper ongoing maintenance schedule. it is also about safety. If your vehicle breaks down prematurely or your rad overheats due to low coolant levels you may be stranded in less than desirable circumstances. In a cold winter time period – say in northern Alberta Canada or Manitoba without a properly working heat defrost mechanism you are a menace on the road to other drivers and vehicles on roads and highways.

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It is fairly standard to state the all drivers, and even their passengers are advised and recommended to periodically check the underside of their car as well as the pavement over which the car, truck or SUV is parked as an early guide to leaks. Checking all fluid levels on a regular basis is a must as well ” not an option.

Check the fluid in your radiator. Its easy to do spot by the level of the fluid in the overflow tank under the hood. Its more than easily apparent. Never ever open the rad cap when the engine is hot or even on the warm side.

Next in line is brake fluid. Loss of brake fluid can be downright dangerous as you may well have lost braking ability. Transmission fluid loss can lead to mechanical failures down the line. It can be checked via dipstick under the hood. Both transmission and power steering fluids are similar products ” a light oil type liquid usually with a reddish, almost rose color. Gasoline itself can leak from a tank. You should be able to discern and odor if gas leaks. Take great care as gas itself is very flammable, and on top of that a gas leak can lead to an engine fire.

There are a couple of type of engine and auto fluids that can leak, that which though not as common can be troublesome and as well should draw notice and attention. Simple motor oil leaking from the oil drip pan on the bottom of your auto engine. These are downright unsightly and will stain driveways and roadways. Its usually a slow leak, which does not drain the engine but will do damage to property and cause unsightly stains.

It is an amazing fact when it comes to company cars. Some of these drivers have nothing but mechanical troubles , downtime and straight misfortune when it comes to their vehicles , repair costs , time off the road for auto vehicle repairs , and even safety concerns when it comes to B.C. and Alberta mountain driving. Other commercial drivers seem to have trouble free vehicle maintenance reports. In most cases experienced Edmonton based auto industry analyst M.U. Labovitch notes it comes down to simple preventative and ongoing vehicle maintenance schedules and routines.

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Who ever takes care of their vehicles radiator and cooling system on a regular and ongoing basis. Few is the answer. Yet with a small amount of simple care and attention on a regular basis you can extend the life of your automotive vehicle and as well provide years more of trouble free service on the roads and highways that you traverse. If you do not have the knowledge or inclination of radiator and cooling system routine maintenance simply ask your auto dealer or local garage who provide maintenance to your vehicle or vehicles.

Yet your car or trucks rad or cooling system is not 100 % maintenance free. Forget about it and you may well have engine overheating damage, substantial auto engine repairs or worse, and no heat from your heater.

How can anyone be taught how to check the coolant level. Simply open up the engine hood when your car has been sitting for a couple of hours. Look for a coolant canister . Its the overflow bottle container and looks simply like a plastic jug. If you do not know how to open your hood – often bonnets today can be a puzzle to open – then consult the auto manual that came with the car , online , or at the worst call your factory dealer or local garage. Just have your auto make , model and year available handy. To judge fluid levels simply look on the side of the coolant overflow container. There will be a marking “cold” or “cold fluid level”. Simply compare the two marks – that of the level of the fluid in the coolant container and the mark on the side of the bottle. Do you have an adequate amount ?

Taking good care of fluid levels under the hood can spare you auto repair bills at your local garage and may well keep you away from car and truck dealers for extra years to come. Its well worth the effort all in all and only requires simple and ongoing attention to detail. After all its your car or truck and your vehicle repair or new car replacement costs out of your own pocketbook.

Its not only a matter of long term truck or car car and long life. Its not only about keeping your vehicle in good running order and a proper ongoing maintenance schedule. it is also about safety. If your vehicle breaks down prematurely or your rad overheats due to low coolant levels you may be stranded in less than desirable circumstances. In a cold winter time period – say in northern Alberta Canada or Manitoba without a properly working heat defrost mechanism you are a menace on the road to other drivers and vehicles on roads and highways.

Do a walk around each and every time that you get into your automobile. Fluid on the ground can indicate safety issues as well as unnecessary repairs down the road. Its just routine vehicle maintenance simple as that.

It is fairly standard to state the all drivers, and even their passengers are advised and recommended to periodically check the underside of their car as well as the pavement over which the car, truck or SUV is parked as an early guide to leaks. Checking all fluid levels on a regular basis is a must as well ” not an option.

What fluids should you check on a regular and ongoing basis? First is the radiator ” or what is referred to as the rad fluid. The radiator dissipates engine heat so that your engine temperature stays just right. Radiator fluid is a varying combination of glycol antifreeze and water. It is usually colored as well, so that leaks are fairly obvious as to origin and also their liquid appearance. Too little rad fluid and your car will run hot. In addition if your radiator fluid level is low your heater may not give you the heat you need to stay warm in your car in the cold Canadian winter time.

Next in line is brake fluid. Loss of brake fluid can be downright dangerous as you may well have lost braking ability. Transmission fluid loss can lead to mechanical failures down the line. It can be checked via dipstick under the hood. Both transmission and power steering fluids are similar products ” a light oil type liquid usually with a reddish, almost rose color. Gasoline itself can leak from a tank. You should be able to discern and odor if gas leaks. Take great care as gas itself is very flammable, and on top of that a gas leak can lead to an engine fire.

It may be no secret why your good friend advises you to “park your car on the street”. Simple motor engine leaks from your underneath your car , may be only an inconvenience to you , but to others may be very difficult to remove if not unsightly to their driveways and roadways. If you do have to park in such a situation and the oil pan on the bottom of your engine does leak , be considerate and bring along a large piece of cardboard to place under the engine of your car , truck or SUV while parked.

All in all , checking fluid levels and watching out for leaks is simple , standard and thorough maintenance. The sign of a good driver.